Mending and modification instructions
It is easy to extend the lifetime of clothes by mending holes, taking up sleeves and legs that are too long, and by cleaning pills off the surface of the fabric. This page contains a few mending and modification instructions which you can use on your Pure Waste clothes.
Shortening a hoodie or sweatshirt
- Cut the garment to the desired length. Remember to leave room for a seam (width of an overlock stitch) and note that the ribbing will shorten by about 1 to 1.5 cm when you cut it.
- Cut the ribbing near the stitching.
- Mark the side and mid-points on the hem ribbing and the middle of the garment’s hem (with pins); sew them together.
- Mark the mid-point on the ribbing of the sleeve and the mouth of the sleeve, and sew together. At this stage, it’s worth turning the sleeve inside out. That makes it easier to sew the ribbing.
- Sew the ribbing on to the hoodie from the ribbing side. Use a four-thread overlock sewing machine or straight stitch + zigzag with a conventional sewing machine. Make sure the needle is intact and preferably intended for knitted fabric: a broken needle can easily make a hole in the knitted fabric.
- If you want, stitch room for a seam on the hoodie side, 2–4 mm from the seam. This makes the seam cleaner, flatter and more durable. Choose thread of the right colour and an intact needle, and make sure the thread tension is not too high (so the stich doesn’t break when stretched).
- Finish off by steaming.
Mending a small hole by hand (in a T-shirt)
- Double thread a needle. You don’t need to knot the thread, as you can tie the thread ends in a knot when finished (this will make the knot thinner).
- Gather up all the loops of thread with a few back-and-forth stitches. If you need to, you can make a few crosswise stitches, zigzagging in the opposite direction.
- Tie the ends of thread together and cut.
Mending a bigger hole in an inconspicuous way on a sewing machine
- Choose a patch of fabric that is the same colour, thread that is as close to the colour as possible, and an intact needle.
- Clean up the messy edges of the hole.
- Sew the patch on under the hole, going with the grain.
- Sew a straight stitch in the direction of the loop so that the stitches come about 5 mm above the edges of the hole.
- Cut the excess edges off the patch on the wrong side of the garment. Steam smooth.
Mending a larger hole in an inconspicuous way by hand:
- Cut the hole into a square.
- Cut into the corners of the hole a few millimetres and iron the edges on the wrong side.
- Place a patch of similar fabric on the wrong side and sew it on the edges with dense, inconspicuous stitches.
- Tack the edges on the wrong side to keep the patch from unravelling.
- Finish off by ironing.
Mending by embroidery (circular patch):
- Use, where possible, an embroidery hoop and embroidery thread.
- Embroider the pattern of your choice on the fabric.
- Embroider parallel threads on the entire pattern.
- Weave through the threads in the other direction; over and under. Once you have woven through the threads, make them taut with your needle. Use the blunt end of the needle for weaving.
- Tie up the loose ends and steam smooth.
Dyeing fabric with an avocado:
You can use an avocado to dye fabric in lots of shades from brown to very pink, depending on the baseness of the dye stock, temperature and avocado variety.
- Wash the avocado skin and stone well (for example with a washing-up brush), cut the stone in half or several parts for drying, and leave to dry.
- There should be roughly the fabric’s weight in avocado stones, but you can use fewer stones if you have time to leave the fabric steeping in the dye for longer.
- Use a large pot for dyeing. To dye a single shirt, fill the pot with about 5 litres of water.
- Put the stones and shredded skins into the pot.
- Add about 50 grams/litre of salt and about 8 grams/litre of baking soda. Soda makes the stock alkaline, which gives a reddish tone.
- Heat the stock up to about 45°C. Let the dye dissolve in the water and cautiously raise the temperature again the following day.
- Knot the shirt and add to the dye stock after about 24 hours.
- Keep the shirt in the stock until the colour is the desired darkness (about 2–5 days). Stir and turn the shirt frequently, and cautiously raise the temperature once or twice a day to let the dye dissolve better. If the temperature rises above 45°C, you will get browner tones, and at lower temperatures you will get redder tones.
- Remove or cut off the elastic bands and machine wash with a neutral detergent at 30–40°.
- Stretch the fabric over a base, such as a pillow.
- Lightly remove the pills by brushing with a cashmere comb or lint remover.